Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Hi Salvatore, Explore. I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. Are there any similar services like the Huntsman 100 from other savile row tailors you would recommend? Its unlikely your right armhole doesnt have to be lower, unless that right shoulder is significantly smaller. A Graham Browne suit and a Huntsman suit are traditional, structured English suits. First fitting was very compromised. Includes access to the digital magazine. Congrats on the blog. I am debating a single or double breasted suit in dark navy for my wedding. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Or would it be too structured? And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. How many fittings would you say one need to work in to have a W&S suit made, and could these be spaced out over a year or so? Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? When buttoning I believe this creates a line along the right side of the jacket and most importantly pushes the collar up and it doesnt stay flush to my neck. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). A.) The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Thanks. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. 192 following. Hi Stephen, I havent tried Edwards MTM so I cant really compare Im afraid. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. I would second that cloth ref. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Youll have to contact them. I guess its about having the knowledge and confidence to get the most out of them and the process. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. Also, is their normally a third fitting?. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Hi Simon. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Simon quick question. No, its a good question. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Hi Simon. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. But as you say, the biggest differences between all those are style. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. No it would look good without a tie. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. I dont know her which says something. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). Were lucky that our workshop allows us to turn fittings around for clients relatively quickly while keeping total control of quality, Suresh explains. The shoulders are quite soft and natural, although the team can certainly do more roping if requested. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. I hesitate to say Whitcomb have done something wrong, as my experience and that of others has been so good, but that sounds like the most likely conclusion. 2. Would Rubinacci London do the trick better than Russell at Graham Browne, with whom Ive already had one rushed suit made in the past? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the conventional fashion in on-site workrooms, and Classic Bespoke, which is cut in London and made in the brand's workshop in Chennai, India. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. The shoulder fit looks (to me) the best of your suits on here. As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. Its not the end of the world, but it certainly bugs me to face an issue which I did not face with RTW- a collar gap. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Ask them and theyll show you the various options. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Apparel & clothing. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? A bit more expensive but still good. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. This is great to know. Hi Simon. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Following your review of W&S I have scheduled an appointment for their upcoming visit to NY. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Great thank you very much! Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. This is a proper Savile Row suit. I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. They have outfitters (not tailors) who measure you, and their cutters/tailors are in Hong Kong. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? If to compare, which make is most value for money? Coats Read More Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Thanks, and great suggestions. The reality seems to be that you must thoroughly educate yourself regarding manufacture and design points, and have a clear sense for what you want, in order to get the most out of the process. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. Maybe this blog will help change that. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Dear Simon, Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Ill reflect more on the overall style of Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, and where it sits relative to other tailors I have tried, when I publish the pictures of the Savile Row Bespoke suit. I had a strict deadline though. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Thanks Simon. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Re your question from Anonymous above, Des had made me a couple of garments. I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. Free shipping for many products! Hi, So should be here for the long term. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style However even though we probably buy the same brands (and silks) my four-in-hand tends to come out smaller and less tilted. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. Henry Poole etc.) Very good sales and marketing. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Free shipping for many products! If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Thanks for your reply. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. Thank you. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. I like traditional and full, not modern and sleek. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. Like all English pretty much, its just too sharp and structured. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. The width here is 3.75 inches. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. But then youre paying over twice the price. A) Its hard, and I think people do and should rely on reviews more for that reason. We wanted clients to be able to fit garments quickly while travel is open. So, if youre intrigued to try an impeccable bespoke tailor with impressive ethical credentials, you know where to go. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). And a pair of flannel trousers? Very happy with her. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. I think youll be absolutely fine if thats what you want. Not a toile. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. . Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. in the style breakdown series. Alex N. OK, good Alex. Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Your website is an amazing read. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. I mean look how they photographed those models. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit.